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About an hour ago the smoke detector in my house started emitting intermittent ear-splitting beeps at roughly 30-60 second intervals. This detector is wired into the home's electrical system.
I've tried blowing vigorously into it to dislodge any dust, and then reconnecting and pushing reset button. I also have tried to open up the detector part itself to see if there's a backup battery that needs replacing, but it feels like I'm going to have to break it to get it open.
Nothing helps, and in fact something in the ceiling is still beeping even though I've disconnected the smoke detector and all its attached wiring, and also shut off the circuit breaker to that part of the house.
I have not been cooking anything all day, nor doing anything else that would produce smoke or dust.
FWIW, the detector is a Kidde model 1235. I found the manual on line, but it doesn't have anything particularly useful to say.
Halp???
Low battery.
posted by Aquaman at 8:59 PM on July 24, 2010 [6 favorites]
posted by Aquaman at 8:59 PM on July 24, 2010 [6 favorites]
What do you mean that something in the ceiling is beeping? You disconnected the smoke detector, held it in your hand, and still heard beeping from the ceiling?
posted by found missing at 9:01 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:01 PM on July 24, 2010
Beeping every 30-60 seconds is indeed the sign of a failed battery. I checked the manual for the Kidde 1235 and it takes a 9V backup battery. The manual has a picture of the battery installation.
posted by kindall at 9:01 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by kindall at 9:01 PM on July 24, 2010
Low battery
posted by KokuRyu at 9:03 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by KokuRyu at 9:03 PM on July 24, 2010
The PDF that I'm looking specifically says that the model 1235 does not have a battery backup.
posted by found missing at 9:04 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:04 PM on July 24, 2010
'When mixing models which have battery backup (1275, 1275H, 1285, PE 120, HD135F) with models without battery backup, (1235, 120X, SL177I) be advised that the models without battery backup will not respond during an AC power failure.'
posted by found missing at 9:05 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:05 PM on July 24, 2010
'CAUTION: THIS UNIT IS SEALED. THE COVER IS NOT REMOVABLE!'
posted by found missing at 9:06 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:06 PM on July 24, 2010
Yeah, I'm confused, because the chirping sound you mention sounds like a standard low-battery warning, but the PDF manual that found missing and I are probably both looking at indicates that model 1235 has no battery. Which manual is kindall looking at?
posted by Orinda at 9:08 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by Orinda at 9:08 PM on July 24, 2010
With all deference to the 'low battery' experts, one possibility is that it is beeping precisely because you disconnected its hardwired power supply. Try installing it, making sure the breaker is on and that power is reaching the unit.
posted by found missing at 9:08 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:08 PM on July 24, 2010
Is the 'beeping' in the ceiling the same sound as the 'chirping' you were hearing from the detector earlier?
posted by Orinda at 9:10 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by Orinda at 9:10 PM on July 24, 2010
Kat?
posted by found missing at 9:15 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by found missing at 9:15 PM on July 24, 2010
Random theory: some other smoke detector in the house has a low backup battery, and is chirping, and this makes the whole smoke-detector network chirp? (weird design if so.)
posted by hattifattener at 9:20 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by hattifattener at 9:20 PM on July 24, 2010
Fyrnetics Lifesaver Smoke Alarm Model 1235 User Manual Video
Do you have other things like a carbon monoxide detector installed that might be beeping? Any other devices that might have an alarm on them?
Also, in a lot of places if you call your local fire department and explain what's going on, they will come out and take a look at it for free. I'm not sure that all of them do this, but over here they'll do it. Maybe that's just a small town thing though.
posted by howrobotsaremade at 9:21 PM on July 24, 2010
Also, in a lot of places if you call your local fire department and explain what's going on, they will come out and take a look at it for free. I'm not sure that all of them do this, but over here they'll do it. Maybe that's just a small town thing though.
posted by howrobotsaremade at 9:21 PM on July 24, 2010
I had this same problem. I also thought it was the smoke detector, which is wired into the ceiling. It was actually my carbon monoxide detector that was chirping, which had low batteries. So maybe it's your CO detector!
posted by foxjacket at 9:26 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by foxjacket at 9:26 PM on July 24, 2010
Sorry about not responding earlier -- I shut down the computer so I could turn off the entire power supply to the house and see if that would stop the beeping. Which it did not. However, about ten minutes later, it *did* stop, for no apparent reason. I was on the phone at the time with a friend whose counsel was the same as howrobotsaremade (call fire dept.), and I will do that if the beeping resumes. I did stick my head up in the attic to verify there's nothing burning up there.
Just to catch up -- yeah, it doesn't appear that this specific model has a battery backup. I should clarify that the 'beeping' and 'chirping' are the same noise -- that sharp, short sort of warning beep that detectors typically give off when batteries are low.
And, most creepily, it did indeed continue with the beep/chirp even after the detector was disconnected, the wiring was disconnected, and the power was shut off. I have NO idea. But I have an electrician coming over tomorrow to take a look-see. I guess it could be a CO detector, but there's no outward sign of one ..
Thanks, everyone, for your helpful ideas and suggestions!
posted by Kat Allison at 9:41 PM on July 24, 2010
Just to catch up -- yeah, it doesn't appear that this specific model has a battery backup. I should clarify that the 'beeping' and 'chirping' are the same noise -- that sharp, short sort of warning beep that detectors typically give off when batteries are low.
And, most creepily, it did indeed continue with the beep/chirp even after the detector was disconnected, the wiring was disconnected, and the power was shut off. I have NO idea. But I have an electrician coming over tomorrow to take a look-see. I guess it could be a CO detector, but there's no outward sign of one ..
Thanks, everyone, for your helpful ideas and suggestions!
posted by Kat Allison at 9:41 PM on July 24, 2010
I have hard wired smoke detectors. They do not last forever. I have had the same issue. You remove it by twisting it and there should be a male-female plug. Unplug that and see if it is still chirping. Sometimes the sensor pad simply 'goes bad' (the technical term my electrician used). I went to Home Depot and purchased a new one which I was able to install (Plug and twist). Chirping gone. I have had ones that chirp even when disconnected with the backup battery DISCONNECTED. I am willing to bet big money that the chirping starts up again within 24 hours.
posted by JohnnyGunn at 9:59 PM on July 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by JohnnyGunn at 9:59 PM on July 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
JohnnyGunn -- yeah, I twisted off and removed the detector part itself (the disc-shaped thingie), and unplugged the plug. It still chirped. I disconnected the plug fixture from the actual wiring that goes into the ceiling -- still chirped.
I don't know why it's now stopped (given that I don't know why it started in the first place), but I tell you, if it starts again tonight, I'm going to thump my head against the wall a few times.
The current plan is to have an electrician come by and replace the current setup with a battery-powered one, on the grounds that it should be relatively easy to replace a freakin' battery, as distinct from messing around with hard-wired arrangements.
(Dear GOD, there are times I miss being a renter...)
posted by Kat Allison at 10:08 PM on July 24, 2010
I don't know why it's now stopped (given that I don't know why it started in the first place), but I tell you, if it starts again tonight, I'm going to thump my head against the wall a few times.
The current plan is to have an electrician come by and replace the current setup with a battery-powered one, on the grounds that it should be relatively easy to replace a freakin' battery, as distinct from messing around with hard-wired arrangements.
(Dear GOD, there are times I miss being a renter...)
posted by Kat Allison at 10:08 PM on July 24, 2010
Smoke detectors do have a finite lifespan, especially the ionization-chamber type (which the Kidde 1235 is). I think they generally last about ten years, after which some models will beep to let you know you should replace them.
posted by hattifattener at 10:25 PM on July 24, 2010
posted by hattifattener at 10:25 PM on July 24, 2010
Your unit has no backup battery. Because of this, a power failure would leave the unit without power to notify you that it had no power. So, the unit has a capacitor that holds a certain amount of power, enough to keep the power failure beeping going for a finite amount of time. Once that amount of time has passed, the chirping stops.
However, the chirping is also used to notify you that the detector (from age or defect) needs repair or replacement. So if it needs attention, the chirping starts.
So, here's what happened: the unit started chirping to tell you it needed attention. When you finally disconnected the power, it continued to chirp, but this time to tell you the power was disconnected. When the capacitor ran out, so did the chirp.
Chuck it and get a new one.
posted by davejay at 11:32 PM on July 24, 2010 [2 favorites]
However, the chirping is also used to notify you that the detector (from age or defect) needs repair or replacement. So if it needs attention, the chirping starts.
So, here's what happened: the unit started chirping to tell you it needed attention. When you finally disconnected the power, it continued to chirp, but this time to tell you the power was disconnected. When the capacitor ran out, so did the chirp.
Chuck it and get a new one.
posted by davejay at 11:32 PM on July 24, 2010 [2 favorites]
I had a couple of units (with battery back up) that were twitchy. They would just chirp for a few hours (even with a new battery) then stop. I replaced the detector. It was that easy.
posted by plinth at 3:22 AM on July 25, 2010
posted by plinth at 3:22 AM on July 25, 2010
Smoke detectors use radioactive (alpha) decay to detect the presence of smoke. The radioactive source inside will gradually decay, and after approximately 10 years will need to be replaced. Because radioactive decay is random what you may have been hearing was a warning that will come and go with the random nature of the decay as the source 'fails'.
posted by alby at 6:39 AM on July 25, 2010
posted by alby at 6:39 AM on July 25, 2010
Assuming you do get a new one, you need to either exchange the old one if the store will take it back, or take it to a hazardous materials pickup site. Do not throw it in the trash; it has a small amount of radioactive element in it.
posted by Slinga at 9:32 AM on July 25, 2010
posted by Slinga at 9:32 AM on July 25, 2010
Smoke detectors use radioactive (alpha) decay to detect the presence of smoke. The radioactive source inside will gradually decay, and after approximately 10 years will need to be replaced.
Most smoke detectors use Americium-241 as a radiation source, which has a half-life of 432 years. So, it's not likely that the radiation source is the problem. It's more likely that one or more of the electronic components have failed.
posted by chrisamiller at 9:33 AM on July 25, 2010
Most smoke detectors use Americium-241 as a radiation source, which has a half-life of 432 years. So, it's not likely that the radiation source is the problem. It's more likely that one or more of the electronic components have failed.
posted by chrisamiller at 9:33 AM on July 25, 2010
FYI, we've been replacing all the detectors in our (new to us) house a couple at at time. For like $4 more than a regular detector, you can get the ones w/ the 10-year battery (normally you change the 9v annually) so basically after 10 years you just chuck the device. No need to hard wire, although networked ones are nice for early detection. For like an extra $8 you can get wireless ones that talk, but I have not used those.
I think we're paying like $12 for a 10-year batteried-hushable detector. Soooo much better than what was in place when we got the house.
posted by TomMelee at 11:03 AM on July 26, 2010
I think we're paying like $12 for a 10-year batteried-hushable detector. Soooo much better than what was in place when we got the house.
posted by TomMelee at 11:03 AM on July 26, 2010
I have had ones that chirp even when disconnected with the backup battery DISCONNECTED.
They do have a capacitor in there somewhere. Hit the Test button and that should drain the cap pretty quickly.
posted by kindall at 3:10 PM on July 27, 2010
They do have a capacitor in there somewhere. Hit the Test button and that should drain the cap pretty quickly.
posted by kindall at 3:10 PM on July 27, 2010
Just to bring closure--closure of a profoundly embarrassing nature, I must add--to this saga: the chirping noise started again the next evening, originating (as far as I could tell) in the ceiling area from which I had removed the detector; I called the fire dept.; they sent out a very, very tall young man who looked the situation over, stuck his head into the adjacent bedroom, and discovered ..
Yeah. There was another smoke detector, stuck up on the wall right above the door, half-hidden by the door molding, which I had somehow completely overlooked. A battery-operated smoke detector. Whose battery was going bad. And which was close enough to the site of the original smoke detector that it was hard to tell the noise was coming from a different location.
So, problem solved, and the takeaway for those of you reading along at home: in 99.5% of hardware/tech glitches where you're waving your arms and shrieking 'I tried EVERYTHING!!' the problem is with the diagnosis, not the solution. Thanks again to everyone who commented and advised!
posted by Kat Allison at 3:54 PM on July 28, 2010 [2 favorites]
Yeah. There was another smoke detector, stuck up on the wall right above the door, half-hidden by the door molding, which I had somehow completely overlooked. A battery-operated smoke detector. Whose battery was going bad. And which was close enough to the site of the original smoke detector that it was hard to tell the noise was coming from a different location.
So, problem solved, and the takeaway for those of you reading along at home: in 99.5% of hardware/tech glitches where you're waving your arms and shrieking 'I tried EVERYTHING!!' the problem is with the diagnosis, not the solution. Thanks again to everyone who commented and advised!
posted by Kat Allison at 3:54 PM on July 28, 2010 [2 favorites]
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For models: 1235, 440379
Smoke and Fire Alarm
User’s Guide
A.C. Wire-in Single and/or Multiple Station (24 Devices) Ionization Smoke Alarm
Thank you for purchasing this smoke and fire alarm. It is an important part of your family’s home safety plan. You can trust this product to provide the highest quality safety protection. We know you expect nothing less when the lives of your family are at stake.
For your convenience, write down the following information. If you call our Consumer Hotline, these are the first questions you will be asked.
Smoke Alarm Model Number (located on back of alarm):
Date Code (located on back of alarm). The National Fire Protection Association and the manufacturer recommend replacing this alarm ten years from the date code:
Date of Purchase:
Where Purchased:
This product is designed to detect products of combustion using the ionization technique. It contains 0.9 microcurie of Americium 241, a radioactive material. Distributed under U.S. NRC License No. 32- 23858-01E. Manufactured in compliance with U.S. NRC safety criteria in 10 CFR 32.27. The purchaser is exempt from any regulatory requirements.
WARNING! DISCONNECTING OR LOSS OF A.C. POWER WILL RENDER THE SMOKE ALARM INOPERATIVE.
ELECTRICAL RATING: 120 VAC, 60HZ, 80mA maximum per alarm (maximum 80mA for originating unit with 24 devices interconnected).
IMPORTANT! READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE INSTALLATION AND KEEP THIS MANUAL NEAR THE ALARM FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.
CONTENTS OF THIS MANUAL
1 -- RECOMMENDED LOCATIONS FOR SMOKE ALARMS
2 -- LOCATIONS TO AVOID
3 -- INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
4 -- OPERATION AND TESTING
5 -- NUISANCE ALARMS
6 -- MAINTENANCE
7 -- LIMITATIONS OF SMOKE ALARMS
8 -- GOOD SAFETY HABITS
9 -- NRC INFORMATION
10 -- NFPA PROTECTION STANDARD 72
11 -- CALIFORNIA STATE FIRE MARSHAL REQUIRED INFORMATION
12 -- SERVICE AND WARRANTY
This smoke alarm uses an extremely small amount of radioactive element in the ionization chamber (see Section 9). Do not try to repair the smoke alarm yourself. Refer to the instructions in Section 12 for service.
1. RECOMMENDED LOCATIONS FOR ALARMS
•Locate the first alarm in the immediate area of the bedrooms. Try to protect the exit path as the bedrooms are usually farthest from the exit. If more than one sleeping area exists, locate additional alarms in each sleeping area.
•Locate additional alarms to protect any stairway as stairways act like chimneys for smoke and heat.
•Locate at least one alarm on every floor level.
•Locate an alarm in every bedroom.
•Locate an alarm in every room where electrical appliances are operated (i.e. portable heaters or humidifiers).
•Locate an alarm in every room where someone sleeps with the door closed. The closed door may prevent the alarm from waking the sleeper.
•Smoke, heat, and combustion products rise to the ceiling and spread horizontally. Mounting the smoke alarm on the ceiling in the center of the room places it closest to all points in the room. Ceiling mounting is preferred in ordinary residential construction.
•For mobile home installation, select locations carefully to avoid thermal barriers that may form at the ceiling. For more details, see MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION below.
•When mounting an alarm on the ceiling, locate it at a minimum of 4” (10 cm) from the side wall (see Diagram A).
•When mounting the alarm on the wall, use an inside wall with the top edge of the alarm at a minimum of 4” (10 cm) and a maximum of 12” (30.5 cm) below the ceiling (see Diagram A).
•Put smoke alarms at both ends of a bedroom hallway or large room if the hallway or room is more than 30 feet (9.1 m) long.
•Install Smoke Alarms on sloped, peaked or cathedral ceilings at or within 3 ft. (0.9m) of the highest point (measured horizontally). NFPA states: “Smoke alarms in rooms with ceiling slopes greater than 1 foot in 8 feet (.3 m in 2.4 m) horizontally shall be located on the high side of the room” “A row of detectors shall be spaced and located within 3 ft. (0.9 m) of the peak of the ceiling measured horizontally” (see diagram “C”).
●Smoke Alarms for Minimum Protection
●Smoke Alarms for Additional Protection ▲ Ionization Type Smoke Alarms with
Some Basics for Equipment Servicing Part 3: Using the proper techniques can speed equipment servicing. The methods are easy, and you can build the test gear! By George Collins,. KCIV n Parts 1 and 2 of this series, we pre- sented the basic troubleshooting methods of dc voltage and resistance measurement, and semiconductor testing. These are very. Signal Service Inc. Provides its customer's with all of the information they need to protect themselves. User Manuals. For your convenience, below are user guides to assist our subscribers with their panel. If you are unable to locate your system or do not know what system you have, please contact our service department. Breaks in a cable. This manual deals with the Signal Injector, a separate manual deals with the Cable Tracker Probe. The Cable Tracker 1 system consists of the Signal Injector control box and the Cable Tracker Probe. The Signal Injector is attached to an exposed part of the cable on land. A 25, 50, 60. DCSI DC SIGNAL INJECTOR. Add Video or PTZ Control to the Camera Power Wires. The DCSI is a splitter that makes it possible to use the low voltage camera power supply wires to send Video, PTZ Data or Audio from the camera to the DVR and vise-versa while at the same time passing up to 4 amps of power to run the camera and other equipment. Marcraft fm signal injector se-1010si user manual.
“Hush” Control or Photoelectric Type
DIAGRAM “B”
ANYWHERE
IN THIS AREA
DIAGRAM “A”
3 ft3 ft
(0.9m) (0.9m)
HORIZONTAL DISTANCE
FROM PEAK
DIAGRAM “C”
MOBILE HOME INSTALLATION
Mobile homes built in the past five to seven years have been designed to be energy efficient. Install smoke alarms as recommended above (refer to RECOMMENDED LOCATIONS and Diagram A).
In mobile homes that are not well insulated compared to present standards, extreme heat or cold can be transferred from the outside to the inside through poorly insulated walls and roof. This may create a thermal barrier which can prevent the smoke from reaching an alarm mounted on the ceiling. In such units, install the smoke alarm on an inside wall with the top edge of the alarm at a minimum of 4” (10 cm) and a maximum of 12” (30.5 cm) below the ceiling (see Diagram A).
If you are not sure about the insulation in your mobile home, or if you notice that the outer walls and ceiling are either hot or cold, install the alarm on an inside wall. For minimum protection, install at least one alarm close to the bedrooms. For additional protection, see SINGLE FLOOR PLAN in Diagram B.
WARNING: TEST YOUR SMOKE ALARM OPERATION AFTER R.V. OR MOBILE HOME VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN STORAGE, BEFORE EACH TRIP AND AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK DURING USE.
2. LOCATIONS TO AVOID
•In the garage. Products of combustion are present when you start your automobile.
•Less than 4” (10cm) from the peak of an “A” frame type ceiling.
•In an area where the temperature may fall below 40ºF or rise above 100ºF.
•In dusty areas. Dust particles may cause nuisance alarm or failure to alarm.
•In very humid areas. Moisture or steam can cause nuisance alarms.
•In insect-infested areas.
•Smoke alarms should not be installed within 3 ft. (.9 m) of the following: the door to a kitchen, the door to a bathroom containing a tub or shower, forced air ducts used for heating or cooling, ceiling or whole house ventilating fans, or other high air flow areas.
•Kitchens. Normal cooking may cause nuisance alarms. If a kitchen alarm is desired, it should have an alarm silence feature or be a photoelectric type.
•Near fluorescent lights. Electronic “noise” may cause nuisance alarms.
3. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
WIRING REQUIREMENTS
•This smoke alarm should be installed on a U.L. listed or recognized junction box. All connections should be made by a qualified electrician and must conform to article 760 of the U.S. National Electrical Code, NFPA 72 and/or any other codes having jurisdiction in your area.
•The appropriate power source is 120 Volt A.C. Single Phase supplied from a non-switchable circuit which is not protected by a ground fault interrupter.
WIRING INSTRUCTIONS FOR A.C. QUICK CONNECT HARNESS
CAUTION! TURN OFF THE MAIN POWER TO THE CIRCUIT BEFORE WIRING THE ALARM.
•For alarms that are used as single station, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED WIRE TO ANYTHING. Leave the red wire insulating cap in place to make certain that the red wire cannot contact any metal parts or the electrical box.
•When alarms are interconnected, all interconnected units must be powered from a single circuit.
•A maximum of 24 Lifesaver devices may be interconnected in a multiple station arrangement. The interconnect system should not exceed the NFPA interconnect limit of 12 smoke alarms and/or 18 alarms total (smoke, heat, etc.) With 18 alarms interconnected, it is still possible to interconnect up to a total of 6 remote signaling devices and/or relay modules.
•When mixing models which have battery backup (1275, 1275H, 1285, PE 120, HD135F) with models without battery backup, (1235, 120X, SL177I) be advised that the models without battery backup will not respond during an AC power failure.
•The maximum wire run distance between the first and last unit in an interconnected system is 1000 feet.
•Figure 1 illustrates interconnection wiring. Improper connection will result in damage to the alarm, failure to operate, or a shock hazard.
•Make certain alarms are wired to a continuous (non-switched) power line.
NOTE: Use standard UL listed household wire (18 gauge or larger as required by local codes) available at all electrical supply stores and most hardware stores.
MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
CAUTION: THIS UNIT IS SEALED. THE COVER IS NOT REMOVABLE!
1.Remove the trim ring from the back of the alarm by holding the trim ring and twisting the alarm in the direction indicated by the “OFF” arrow on the alarm cover.
2.After selecting the proper smoke alarm location as described in Section 1 and wiring the A.C. QUICK CONNECT harness as described in the WIRING INSTRUCTIONS, attach the trim ring to the electrical box (see Figure 2).
FIGURE 1 INTERCONNECT WIRING DIAGRAM
WIRES ON ALARM HARNESS | CONNECTED TO |
Black | Hot Side of A.C. Line |
White | Neutral Side of A.C. Line |
Red | Interconnect Lines (Red Wires) of Other |
Units in the Multiple Station Set up |
Optional Accessory
3.Use a screwdriver to punch out only the pair of holes in the trim ring that match your type of electrical box or plaster ring. Mount the trim ring to the electrical box, using the appropriate holes. NOTE: Use the circle, square and octagon markings near each mounting hole in the trim ring to help you select the correct mounting holes (see Figure 2).
4.Pull the A.C. QUICK CONNECTOR through the center hole in the trim ring and mount the ring, making sure that the mounting screws are positioned in the small ends of the keyholes before tightening the screws (see Figure 2).
5.Plug the A.C. QUICK CONNECTOR into the back of the alarm (see Figure 3), making sure that the locks on the connector snap into place. Then push the excess wire back into the electrical box through the hole in the center of the trim ring.
6.If you have finished all the WIRING AND TRIM RING MOUNTING STEPS, you can install the alarm on the trim ring. Alignment marks are provided on the side of the alarm and on the trim ring (see Figure 4).
7.Install the alarm on the trim ring with the indicating marks aligned and rotate the alarm in the direction of the “ON” arrow on the cover until the alarm snaps in place (see Figure 4).
8.Turn on the A.C. power. The green A.C. Power On Indicator should be lit when the alarm is operating from A.C. power.
TAMPER RESIST LOCKING PIN: To make your smoke alarm somewhat tamper resistant, a locking pin has been provided with your alarm. Using this pin will deter children and others from removing the alarm from trim ring. To use the pin, insert it into the hole in the side of the alarm after the alarm has been installed on the trim ring (see Figure 5). NOTE: The tamper resist pin will have to be removed in order to remove the alarm. Use a long nose pliers to pull the pin out of the hole. It is now possible to remove the alarm from the trim ring.
After installation, TEST your alarm by pressing and holding the test button for several seconds. This should sound the alarm.
FIGURE 2. SELECT CORRECT MOUNTING HOLES ON TRIM RING
Rectangular Plaster Ring | Circular Plaster Ring | Octagonal Electrical Box |
4. OPERATION AND TESTING
OPERATION: The smoke alarm is operating once A.C. power is applied and testing is complete. When the smoke alarm ionization chamber senses products of combustion, the horn will sound a loud (85db) temporal alarm until the sensing chamber is cleared of smoke particles.
To remove A.C. | Alignment marks | |
connector, | Tamper resistant | |
squeeze | ||
locking arms | locking pin | |
and pull | ||
Install | Remove | |
FIGURE 3. | FIGURE 4. | FIGURE 5. |
LED INDICATORS: This smoke alarm is equipped with red and green LED indicators. The red LED is located under the test button and has two modes of operation.
Standby Condition The red LED will flash every 30-40 seconds to indicate that the smoke alarm is operating properly.
Alarm Condition When the alarm senses products of combustion and goes into alarm, the red LED will flash rapidly (one flash per second). The rapid flashing LED and temporal alarm will continue until the air is cleared.
WHEN UNITS ARE INTERCONNECTED, only the red LED of the alarm which senses the smoke or is being tested (the originating unit) will flash rapidly. All other units in the interconnect system will sound an alarm but their red LED’s will NOT flash rapidly.
The green LED has two modes of operation.
Standby Condition The green LED will be steady on, indicating the presence of AC power. Alarm Condition This smoke alarm is equipped with an alarm memory which provides a
visual indication when an alarm has been activated. A flashing green LED indicates the memory condition. The memory will remain activated until it is reset by pushing the test button.
In an interconnected installation only the memory of the originating alarm will be activated.
TESTING: Test by pushing the test button on the cover and hold it down for a minimum of 2 seconds. This will sound the alarm if the electronic circuitry and horn are working. If no alarm sounds, check the fuse or circuit breaker supplying power to the alarm circuit. If the alarm still does not sound, the unit may have other failure. DO NOT use an open flame to test your alarm, you could damage the alarm or ignite combustible materials and start a structure fire.
TEST THE ALARM WEEKLY TO ENSURE PROPER OPERATION. Erratic or low sound coming from your alarm may indicate a defective alarm, and it should be returned for service (see Section 12).
5. NUISANCE ALARMS
Smoke alarms are designed to minimize nuisance alarms. Cigarette smoke will not normally set off the alarm, unless the smoke is blown directly into the alarm. Combustion particles from cooking may set off the alarm if the alarm is located close to the cooking area. Large quantities of combustible particles are generated from spills or when broiling. Using the fan on a range hood which vents to the outside (non-recirculating type) will also help remove these combustible products from the kitchen.
If the alarm does sound, check for fires first. If a fire is discovered, get out and call the fire department. If no fire is present, check to see if one of the reasons listed in Section 2 may have caused the alarm.
6. MAINTENANCE
ALARM REMOVAL
IF TAMPER RESIST PIN HAS BEEN USED, REFER TO TAMPER RESIST LOCKING PIN IN SECTION 3 FOR PIN REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS.
You can remove the alarm from the trim ring by rotating the alarm in the direction of the “OFF” arrow on the cover (See Section 3. Figure 4).
To disconnect the A.C. power harness, squeeze the locking arms on the sides of the Quick Connector while pulling the connector away from the bottom of the alarm (see Section 3, Figure 3).
CLEANING YOUR ALARM.
YOUR ALARM SHOULD BE CLEANED AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.
To clean your alarm, remove it from the mounting bracket as outlined in the beginning of this section. You can clean the interior of your alarm (sensing chamber) by using compressed air or a vacuum cleaner hose and blowing or vacuuming through the openings around the perimeter of the alarm. The outside of the alarm can be wiped with a damp cloth.
After cleaning, reinstall your alarm and test your alarm by using the test button. Check that the green LED is on. If cleaning does not restore the alarm to normal operation the alarm should be replaced.
7. LIMITATIONS OF SMOKE ALARMS
WARNING: PLEASE READ CAREFULLY AND THOROUGHLY
•NFPA 72 states: Life safety from fire in residential occupancies is based primarily on early notification to occupants of the need to escape followed by the appropriate egress actions by those occupants. Fire warning systems for dwelling units are capable of protecting about half of the occupants in potentially fatal fires. Victims are often intimate with the fire, too old or young, or physically or mentally impaired such that they cannot escape even when warned early enough that escape should be possible. For these people, other strategies such as protection-in-place or assisted escape or rescue are necessary.
•Smoke alarms are devices that can provide early warning of possible fires at a reasonable cost; however, alarms have sensing limitations. Ionization type alarms offer a broad range of fire sensing capabilities but are better at detecting fast flaming fires than slow smoldering fires. Photoelectric alarms sense smoldering fires better than flaming fires. Home fires develop in different ways and are often unpredictable. Neither type of alarm (photoelectric or ionization) is always best, and a given alarm may not always provide warning of a fire.
•A battery powered alarm must have a battery of the specified type, in good condition and installed properly.
•A.C. powered alarms will not operate if the A.C. power has been cut off, such as by an electrical fire or an open fuse.
•Smoke alarms must be tested regularly to make sure the batteries and the alarm circuits are in good operating condition.
•Smoke alarms cannot provide an alarm if smoke does not reach the alarm. Therefore, smoke alarms may not sense fires starting in chimneys, wall, on roofs, on the other side of a closed door or on a different floor.
•If the alarm is located outside the bedroom or on a different floor, it may not wake up a sound sleeper.
•The use of alcohol or drugs may also impair one’s ability to hear the smoke alarm. For maximum protection, a smoke alarm should be installed in each sleeping area on every level of a home.
•Although smoke alarms can help save lives by providing an early warning of a fire, they are not a substitute for an insurance policy. Home owners and renters should have adequate insurance to protect their lives and property.
•Install and maintain Fire Extinguishers on every level of the home and in the kitchen, basement and garage. Know how to use a fire extinguisher prior to an emergency.
8. GOOD SAFETY HABITS
DEVELOP AND PRACTICE A PLAN OF ESCAPE
•Make a floor plan indicating all doors and windows and at least two (2) escape routes from each room. Second story windows may need a rope or chain ladder.
•Have a family meeting and discuss your escape plan, showing everyone what to do in case of fire.
•Determine a place outside your home where you all can meet if a fire occurs.
•Familiarize everyone with the sound of the smoke alarm and train them to leave your home when they hear it.
•Practice a fire drill at least every six months. Practice allows you to test your plan before an emergency. You may not be able to reach your children. It is important they know what to do.
WHAT TO DO WHEN THE ALARM SOUNDS
•Leave immediately by your escape plan. Every second counts, so don’t waste time getting dressed or picking up valuables.
•In leaving, don’t open any inside door without first feeling its surface. If hot, or if you see smoke seeping through cracks, don’t open that door! Instead, use your alternate exit. If the inside of the door is cool, place your shoulder against it, open it slightly and be ready to slam it shut if heat and smoke rush in.
•Stay close to the floor if the air is smoky. Breathe shallowly through a cloth, wet if possible.
•Once outside, go to your selected meeting place and make sure everyone is there.
•Call the fire department from your neighbor’s home - not from yours!
•Don’t return to your home until the fire officials say that it is all right to do so.
There are situations where a smoke alarm may not be effective to protect against fire as stated in the NFPA Standard 72. For instance:
a)smoking in bed
b)leaving children home alone
c)cleaning with flammable liquids, such as gasoline
Further information on fire safety can be obtained in a pamphlet titled “IN A FIRE SECONDS COUNT” published by the NFPA, Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269
9. NRC INFORMATION
Ionization type smoke alarms use a very small amount of a radioactive element in the sensing chamber to enable detection of visible and invisible combustion products. The radioactive element is safely contained in the chamber and requires no adjustments or maintenance. This smoke alarm meets or exceeds all government standards. It is manufactured and distributed under license from the U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission.
10. NFPA REQUIRED PROTECTION
The National Fire Protection Association’s Standard 72 provides the following information:
Smoke alarms shall be installed outside each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms and on each additional story of the family living unit, including basements and excluding crawl spaces and unfinished attics. In new construction, a smoke alarm also shall be installed in each sleeping room.
Smoke Detection - Are More Smoke Alarms Desirable? The required number of smoke alarms might not provide reliable early warning protection for those areas separated by a door from the areas protected by the required smoke alarms. For this reason, it is recommended that the householder consider the use of additional smoke alarms for those areas for increased protection. The additional areas include the basement, bedrooms, dining room, furnace room, utility room, and hallways not protected by the required smoke alarms. The installation of the smoke alarms in the kitchen, attic (finished or unfinished), or garage is normally not recommended, as these locations occasionally experience conditions that can result in improper operation.
This equipment should be installed in accordance with the National Fire Protection Association’s Standard 72 (NFPA, Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269).
NOTIFY YOUR LOCAL FIRE DEPARTMENT AND INSURANCE COMPANY OF YOUR SMOKE ALARM INSTALLATION.
11. CAUTION (AS REQUIRED BY THE CALIFORNIA STATE FIRE MARSHAL)
“Early warning fire detection is best achieved by the installation of fire detection equipment in all rooms and areas of the household as follows: A smoke alarm installed in each separate sleeping area (in the vicinity of, but outside of the bedrooms), and heat or smoke alarms in the living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms, kitchens, hallways, attics, furnace rooms, closets, utility and storage rooms, basements and attached garages.”
12. SERVICE AND WARRANTY
If after reviewing this manual you feel that your smoke alarm is defective in any way, do not tamper with the unit. Return it for servicing to: KIDDE Safety, 1394 South Third St., Mebane, NC 27302. (See Warranty for in-warranty returns)
FIVE YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
KIDDE Safety warrants to the original purchaser that the enclosed smoke alarm will be free from defects in material and workmanship or design under normal use and service for a period of five years from the date of purchase. The obligation of KIDDE Safety under this warranty is limited to repairing or replacing the smoke alarm or any part which we find to be defective in material, workmanship or design, free of charge to the customer, upon sending the smoke alarm with proof of date of purchase, postage and return postage prepaid, to Warranty Service Department, KIDDE Safety, 1394 South Third St., Mebane, NC 27302.
This warranty shall not apply to the smoke alarm if it has been damaged, modified, abused or altered after the date of purchase or if it fails to operate due to improper maintenance or inadequate A.C. or D.C. electrical power.
THE LIABILITY OF KIDDE SAFETY OR ANY OF ITS PARENT OR SUBSIDIARY CORPORATIONS ARISING FROM THE SALE OF THIS SMOKE ALARM OR UNDER THE TERMS OF THIS LIMITED WARRANTY SHALL NOT IN ANY CASE EXCEED THE COST OF REPLACEMENT OF SMOKE ALARM AND, IN NO CASE, SHALL KIDDE SAFETY OR ANY OF ITS PARENT OR SUBSIDIARY CORPORATIONS BE LIABLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL LOSS OR DAMAGES RESULTING FROM THE FAILURE OF THE SMOKE ALARM OR FOR BREACH OF THIS OR ANY OTHER WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, EVEN IF THE LOSS OR DAMAGE IS CAUSED BY THE COMPANY’S NEGLIGENCE OR FAULT.
Since some states do not allow limitations on the duration of an implied warranty or do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. While this warranty gives you specific legal rights, you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
The above warranty may not be altered except in writing signed by both parties hereto.
Fyrnetics Lifesaver Smoke Alarm Model 1235 User Manual Pdf
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Fyrnetics Lifesaver Model 1275 Replacement
Call our Consumer Hotline at
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Mebane, NC 27302
Lifesaver Smoke Alarm 1275 Manual
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